This is great for me because I do not have much drawing or painting skills. I love art, but I certainly would not be able to create my DA images without Daz Studio. Best of all, you can get it for free HERE.

Arabian Dreams Fantasy Woman Art created using Daz Studio, Iray, and Photoshop.

What Is Daz Studio?

Ok, so now we know that Daz Studio is cool, but what exactly is Daz Studio?

Daz Studio is a 3D rendering program. You create a 3D scene, light it, adjust camera settings, and then just click render. In this way, it is like photography, except you are taking a picture of a virtual scene. Because it is a virtual scene, we get a lot more control over the scene itself, as well as how it is lighted.

You may think that creating a 3D scene is very complicated and time consuming, but actually it is not. This is because we can get many 3D-objects, poses, and lights to populate our scene from the Daz3d marketplace. In fact, that is how they make money, which is why they give away the Daz Studio software for free.

The software itself also comes with some free initial content, and you can get more free daily items from their freebie page. In this way, you can try things out first, without having to buy content right off. Daz also organizes many sales throughout the year, so I buy most items in my library at a 50% or more discount.

WARNING – Daz Studio can be very very addictive.

WARNING – Daz Studio can be very very addictive.

How to Create a Scene?

One of the first things that I did when I first started using Daz Studio is to set up the layout. This allows me to pick an interface that I am comfortable with. I go to Window -> Workspace -> Select Layout (see below).

One of the first things that I did when I first started using Daz Studio is to set up the layout.

When the pop-up window comes up, we can pick the layout we like most from a drop-down menu (see below). I use the Hollywood Blvd layout, so that is the one you will see in all of my tutorials. I like this layout because it is most similar to the Poser interface that I used before moving to Daz Studio. More on why I moved to Daz Studio.

When the pop-up window comes up, we can pick the layout we like most from a drop-down menu.

Now we are ready to create our scene. The first thing that I do is go to the Smart Content tab (interface left). If the tab is not there, we can easily right-click on empty space in the tabs area and pick Add Pane (Tab). This allows us to add additional tabs to the interface.

In the Smart Content panel, I drill down to Default > Figures > People > Female > Real World. This presents me with a thumbnail grid of realistic female figures. From this list, I double click on Charlotte 8 HD. This adds a human figure into my scene.

In the Smart Content panel, I drill down to Default > Figures > People > Female > Real World. From this list I pick Charlotte 8 HD.

Next, I enrich my figure by adding hair and clothing. An easy way to do this is to click on the Scene tab (interface right), and select my Charlotte 8 object. Then, I go back to the Smart Content panel, go to Hair > Long, and double click on the wonderful Alice Hair by OOT. Similarly, I go to Wardrobe > Outfits, and double click on Lilikh !Outfit.

I go back to the Smart Content panel, go to Hair > Long, and double click on the wonderful Alice Hair.

After crafting my character, I want to give her an artistic pose. To do this, I go to the Pose & Animate tab (interface top). Then, I go to the Smart Content panel and pick a pose that shows off the character and outfit.

I go to the Pose & Animate tab (interface top). Then, I go to the Smart Content panel and pick a pose that shows off the character and outfit.

Camera controls icons in top-right of viewport.

Once that is done, I may adjust the camera a bit (top right of viewport). Finally, I go to the Render tab (top), and click on the camera icon (top left of viewport). And just like that, I start rendering my scene.

What Is Iray, 3Delight, and Reality?

In addition to Daz Studio, you may also hear people talk about Iray, 3Delight, and Reality/Lux. These are all different renderers that we may use to render our 3D-scene. I highly recommend Iray because it is a physically based renderer that is built into Daz Studio. As such, it is easier to access, and there are a lot of shaders and materials for it in the Daz3d marketplace. The only downside to using Iray is that we will need a good nVidia graphics card for it to render in a timely manner.

Reality/Lux is also a physically based renderer, but we get to it through a plugin. As such it is not as integrated, and there are very few supporting shaders and materials that we can purchase. It is therefore, more of a do-it-yourself option.

3Delight is the original Daz Studio renderer and it is not physically based. Scenes generally render faster and are less noisy, but they are also less realistic.

Set renderer to Iray by going to Render Settings > Editor > Engine

We can pick to use the Iray renderer by going to the Render Settings tab (interface right). Select Editor up top, and then pick the renderer you want from the drop-down menu next to Engine.

What Is Iray, 3Delight, and Reality?

How to Improve Your Daz Studio Images

Once we get comfortable with the Daz Studio interface, we can start to drill down into certain key areas to improve our images. I got the most bang for the buck by improving my scene lighting, so that is the area that I would recommend tackling first.

This tutorial describes in greater detail how I light my Iray scenes. You can also see how improvements in lighting leads to changes in my images here.

How to Improve Your Daz Studio Images

Can I save a dForce pose? How do I do this?

The short answer is yes, we can save a Daz Studio dForce frame as a morph. In this tutorial, I will describe the steps I use to save a frame from the dForce Sweet Anime Outfit.

How to Save a Daz Studio dForce Frame as a Morph

1. Save the dForce Frame as an OBJ File

1. Go to the dForce frame we want to save.
2. Right-click on the dForce Sweet Anime Outfit and unparent it from our Genesis 8 figure.

1. Right-click on the dForce Sweet Anime Outfit and unparent it from my Genesis 8 figure.
3. Delete everything else from the scene except for the dForce Sweet Anime Outfit.

Delete everything else from the scene except for the dForce Sweet Anime Outfit.

Zero out all other pose and shape settings on the dForce object.
4. Zero out all other pose and shape settings on the dForce object. This will ensure that the object mesh that we are saving only has the dForce simulation changes applied to it. I zero out my dForce dress by right-clicking on it and then choose Select > Select Children. Then, I do Edit > Object > Zero > Zero Selected Item(s).

Set the Mesh Resolution of our dForce object to Base.
5. Go to the Parameters tab and set General > Mesh Resolution > Resolution Level to Base. This ensures that our saved mesh will properly match with the original object mesh. This is important in the next section when we use our OBJ file as a morph.

Set Save as type to Wavefront Object (*.obj).
6. Do File > Export and set Save as type to Wavefront Object (*.obj). I name my OBJ file based on what I want to call my morph parameter. For example, in the case of the pink dress morph, I name my file WindLtoR. For the OBJ Export Options, I use the Daz Studio defaults (see below).

For the OBJ Export Options, I use the Daz Studio defaults.

At this point, we have an OBJ file of our simulated dForce dress.

2. Save the OBJ File as a Morph

1. Start a new scene.
2. Load the base Genesis 8 figure (make sure pose and shape are zeroed out).
3. Fit the dForce Sweet Anime Outfit to our Genesis 8 figure.

Select our dForce dress and go to Assets > Morph Loader Pro.
4. Go to the Scene tab and select the dForce Sweet Anime Outfit. Click on the triangle and lines menu button and select Assets > Morph Loader Pro (see right).
5. Click on Choose Morph Files and select the OBJ file we saved in the previous section (see below). Hit the Accept button and hopefully the morph will load successfully. A common reason for failure is when the OBJ file mesh does not match with the original object mesh. This is why we want to make sure that the OBJ file only contains the pink dress object and nothing else. In addition, we need to set the Mesh Resolution Level to Base (as outlined in the previous section).

Click on Choose Morph Files and select the OBJ file we saved in the previous section.
6. If our morph loaded successfully then it should appear in the Parameters tab under Morphs > Morph Loader. Dial in the morph to see how it looks on our figure.

If our morph loaded successfully then it should appear in the Parameters tab under Morphs > Morph Loader.

Right-click on our new morph parameter and select Edit Mode.
7. Right-click on our new morph parameter and select Edit Mode.

With Edit Mode on, right-click again and choose ERC Freeze…
8. With Edit Mode on, right-click again and choose ERC Freeze…
9. I just use the default ERC Freeze Options and click Accept.

I just use the default ERC Freeze Options and click Accept.
10. Save our morph by going to File > SaveAs > Support Asset > Morph Asset(s)…

Save our morph by going to File > SaveAs > Support Asset > Morph Asset(s)…

In the Morph Asset(s) Save Options interface, deselect everything and only click on our new dForce wind parameter (e.g. WindLtoR).
11. In the Morph Asset(s) Save Options interface, deselect everything and only click on our new dForce wind parameter (e.g. WindLtoR). I also set Vendor Name to Shiba. Click on Accept.

We are all done! Now when I restart Daz Studio and load in the dForce Sweet Anime Outfit, I have my WindLtoR parameter under Morphs > Morph Loader (see below).

Now when I restart Daz Studio and load in the dForce Sweet Anime Outfit, I have my WindLtoR parameter under Morphs > Morph Loader.

How to Delete a Saved Morph

1. Go to Daz Studio Content Directory > data.
2. Do a search for my OBJ file name, for example WindLtoR.
3. In this case, the file was in Daz Studio Content Directory > data > nikisatez > G8FSweetAnime > Sweet Anime Dress > Morphs > Shiba > Product > WindLtoR.dsf.
4. Delete WindLtoR.dsf to delete our newly saved morph.

Daz Studio dForce simulation applied to the dress of the fantasy girl.

Pose vs. Morph

Why can’t I just save my dForce simulation result as a pose?

As I understand it, a pose captures changes made to the bones or rigging of a figure. For example, a pose would be bending the forearm of a figure and turning her head. In contrast, a morph captures changes made to the mesh of the figure. For example, different face shapes or body musculature.

A dForce simulation operates on the mesh of the figure, which is why we are able to get much nicer cloth drapes than what is possible with just rigging. As a result, to save a dForce frame, we will need to save it as a morph.

Daenerys Targaryen, Game of Thrones Fan-Art. Daz Studio dForce simulation applied to her white dress.

With dForce, I can not only use Poser dynamic dresses on Genesis figures, but also older V4 dresses that did not autofit well on Genesis.

In this tutorial, I will outline how I simulate two V4/Poser dynamic cloth items (the over-sleeves and over-skirt from Angeloi – the Outfit) on a Genesis 8 Female figure. The final result is shown in the image below. You may also view a larger version in my Daz Gallery.

Daz Studio Dynamic Cloth (dForce) Tutorial for Beginners with two V4/Poser dynamic cloth items on a Genesis 8 female figure.

1. Add Cloth Items and Pose Figure

1. We start by adding a Genesis 8 Female figure.
2. Add in a floor or background environment so that there is a ground collision item for our cloth simulation. In my example scene, I add in the Oremus set.
3. Go to our Poser directory and add in the over-sleeves and over-skirt props from Angeloi – the Outfit.

Parent both cloth items to Chest Upper in our Genesis 8 figure.
4. Next, parent both cloth items to Chest Upper in our Genesis 8 figure (see right). At this point, I only add in items that are necessary for the cloth simulation. More objects (or geometry) in the scene, especially on the figure, will slow down the simulation.
5. Go to the Pose tab and frame 0 in our timeline.
6. In the first frame, set our G8F figure to the old T-pose (see below). We can do that by using a pose converter product such as the one by Zev0 or RiverSoft Art. Some pose packs may also contain the T-pose.

In the first frame, set our G8F figure to the old T-pose.
7. To give our cloth items time to properly drape, we also want to increase the number of frames in our timeline. I set my total number of frames to 51, but you can adjust this to suit your scene and taste.

I set my total number of frames to 51, but you can adjust this to suit your scene and taste.
8. Go to frame 15 and set the end pose of our figure. In this way, we have 15 frames to simulate the cloth into our figure end-position, and 35 frames for the cloth to drape.

Go to frame 15 and set the end pose of our figure. Note that I only included the underwear set here so that you can clearly see the figure end-pose.

This finishes our figure set-up. Next, we work on the cloth simulation parameters.

2. Daz Studio Dynamic Cloth Setup

1. First, we want to set up our global simulation parameters. To do that, open up the Simulation Settings pane.

Go to Simulation > Initialization and set Start Bones From Memorized Pose to Off.
2. Go to Simulation > Initialization and set Start Bones From Memorized Pose to Off (see right).

   [List and descriptions of all global cloth simulation settings.]


Go to Simulation > Duration and set Frames to Simulate to Animated (Use Timeline Play Range).
3. Go to Simulation > Duration and set Frames to Simulate to Animated (Use Timeline Play Range) (see right).
4. Now we are ready to add dynamic cloth settings to our cloth objects. Go to the Scene tab and select both the Angeloi oversleeves and overskirt objects.
5. On the Simulation Settings pane, click on the Options Menu button (the little button with a triangle and lines) next to the blue Simulate button. Select dForce > Add dForce Modifier: Dynamic Surface (see below). This will make both selected objects dynamic and add new cloth simulation parameters in the Surfaces tab.

Click on the Options Menu button (the little button with a triangle and lines) next to the blue Simulate button, then select dForce > Add dForce Modifier: Dynamic Surface.
6. Go to the Sufaces tab and click on Editor. Select all surfaces and change the Bend Stiffness parameter from 0.5 to 0.25 (see below). This will help prevent exploding meshes. Mephoria has more useful tips on exploding meshes in the Daz Forum.

Select all surfaces and change the Bend Stiffness parameter from 0.5 to 0.25.
7. Select ANG Overskirt > constrained and set the Dynamics Strength parameter to 0 (see below). This will hold the top of the over-skirt together.

   [List and descriptions of each dynamic surface parameter.]


Select ANG Overskirt > constrained and set the Dynamics Strength parameter to 0.

This finishes our cloth simulation settings. Now go to the Pose tab, click on the blue Simulate button, and enjoy the cloth simulation! At frame 15, we get the simulation image below.

At frame 15, we get this Daz Studio Viewport simulation image.

At frame 51 we get the final simulation image.

At frame 51 we get the final simulation image. Here, the over-sleeves have had the chance to settle down and drape over our fantasy girl.

3. Adjust and Finish

We may adjust draping by changing the initial rotation of our figure. Alternatively, we can tweak any of the interim poses or add in new key-frames. Once we are happy with the simulation, we finish up our scene by –

• Smoothing out the geometry of our cloth items,
• Applying appropriate Iray shaders, and
• Adding in new objects and details to our fantasy scene.

1. Go to the Scene pane and select both the Angeloi over-sleeves and over-skirt objects. Do Option Menu (triangle + lines button) > Edit > Geometry > Convert SubD and Option Menu > Edit > Geometry > Add Smoothing Modifier. Both of these operations will help to smooth out our cloth items.
2. Go to Parameters > General > Mesh Smoothing and set Collision Item to our Genesis 8 figure. This helps to remove pesky poke through between our cloth objects and fantasy female figure.
3. There may also be some collisions with the floor. Therefore, I slightly move the floor down until the collisions are no longer visible. For this reason, I like to start with the floor a bit raised during the cloth simulation.
4. Next, we add in details, accessories, and more, to enrich and finish up our scene. In my Sultry Night scene, I added in the Bean Sidhe outfit on my figure, as well as some fireflies as a light accent.
5. Finally, apply appropriate Iray shaders on surfaces that need them, and we are done!

Daz Studio viewport of my scene after adding in the Bean Sidhe outfit and applying Iray shaders to the cloth items.

After render and postwork, I get the finished fantasy woman image below.

After render and postwork, I get this finished fantasy woman image.

Daz Studio dForce Q&A

1. When should I fit the dynamic clothing and when not?

   I fit clothing when there are pieces/surfaces within it that are not dynamic but should fit to the body. In this case, I fit the clothing, select the surfaces that should not be dynamic, go to the Surfaces pane, and set Visible in Simulation to Off.

2. Will all clothing work with dForce?

   The dForce simulator should work on any object, however, it may not work well on clothing objects that were not designed for it. For example there may be unattached pieces that fly off, exploding meshes, etc. Here is a good list of reasons from Richard Haseltine.

In this tutorial, we focus on softening effects that we get from camera, lighting, and atmosphere. We achieve these effects partly in Daz Studio and partly in Photoshop. We will use the composition below to illustrate the different effects. The background is Sacelleum of Corlyk, the hair is Sapphire Hair, and the outfit is Novariens Holy for V4.

5 Ways to Create ‘Soft Lighting Effects’ in Daz Studio & Photoshop

1. Depth of Field

One of the easiest ways to soften our Daz Studio image is by adding depth of field effects. This is a camera effect that keeps objects that are in-focus sharp, and blurs everything else based on distance. For example, in the image below we have camera DOF turned on, with the F/Stop parameter set to 32. We set our camera focus point to be between our figure’s eyes. Notice that based on these settings, our figure is sharp whereas the background elements have been blurred-out.

Image with camera depth-of-field turned on. Notice that the figure is sharp whereas the background elements are blurred.

In the next image, we turn off depth-of-field to highlight the differences. Notice that the previous image is much softer because of the blurring effect, however, a lot of the background details (for example on the stone statue) is lost due to this blurring.

Fantasy art image with camera depth-of-field turned off.

One very simple way to properly set camera depth of field in Daz Studio, is to use the framing tool. This great tutorial from Flipmode describes how you can do this.

Note that to get more accurate DOF effects, I add a null point to my scene (Create > New Null), parent it to my figure’s head, and place it right between my figure’s eyes. I can then use this null point as my camera framing point.

2. Mesh Lighs

Another way to soften lighting is to use mesh lights instead of spotlights. Here is a quick and simple way of turning a Daz Studio spotlight into a mesh light.

In the image below, the fantasy girl to the left is illuminated with a point-spotlight, creating very sharp shadows on her body. In contrast, the fantasy girl to the right is illuminated with a mesh light, in the same position, creating softer shadows. The larger we make our mesh light, the softer our shadows will be.

Mesh lights (right) have a softening effect because it creates softer shadows.

If we want to create softer lighting with an IBL or Environment map, we blur our environment map image.

3. Volumetric Lights

A great way to create atmosphere and soften scene lighting is by using volumetric lights. In the real-world, there are dust particles in the air. When light hits those particles, you get scattering effects that can make the light-ray appear visible to us.

Volumetric lighting is a technique used in 3D computer graphics to add lighting effects to a rendered scene. It allows the viewer to see beams of light shining through the environment; seeing sunbeams streaming through an open window is an example of volumetric lighting, also known as crepuscular rays.
~~[Wikipedia]

Fallen Angel Fantasy Art with volumetric light rendered using AoA’s Atmospheric Effects Cameras for DAZ Studio. 3Delight render.

In 3Delight, I can get volumetric light effects by using Age of Armour’s Atmospheric Effects Cameras for DAZ Studio. The Volumetric Camera in this package allows me to select which lights to render atmospheric effects on. It is simple to use, fast, and I like the results that I get. The image above uses AoA’s camera to render the beam of light (from a spotlight) shining on the fallen angel. There is also a Fog Camera in the package that is useful for adding atmosphere to our images. Note that these AoA cameras only work in 3Delight.

In Daz Studio Iray, I get volumetric light effects by using AtmoCam for Iray by Marshian. Because Iray is a physically based renderer, we need to actually model our volume of air with scattering effects. Marshian’s package comes with a large volumetric prop that we use to encapsulate our scene, as well as a set of materials to get different scattering effects and colors. While this simplifies some of the volumetric-light setup for us, it is not as easy to use as AoA’s atmospheric cameras (in 3Delight only).

White Angel, Dark Tentacles, Fantasy Art. Rendered in Daz Studio Iray using Marshian’s AtmoCam for Iray.

Some things to keep in mind while setting up Marshian’s AtmoCam –

• The volumetric prop is only visible in wireframe view.
• To work properly, the volumetric prop needs to encapsulate the entire visible area. It also has to encapsulate all lights that we want to render with the volumetric effect.
• However, our render camera needs to be outside the volumetric prop.
• I find that the easiest way to properly adjust the prop is by using a Top Wireframe view (see below).

Some things to keep in mind while setting up Marshian’s AtmoCam.

We can also create our own volumetric prop and shader by following the procedure outlined here in the Daz Forum.

I usually include at least one volumetric light in my images to get atmosphere and softening effects. In the image below, the fantasy girl to the right has an added volumetric light shining on her face, which helps to soften the overall scene.

Right image has an added volumetric light which helps to soften our scene.

Physically based volumetric lights can be time intensive to render, so I usually stop it before full convergence. I can then remove much of the noise in Photoshop by doing Filter > Noise > Despeckle. I repeat this operation until I get the results that I want.

A cheaper but less accurate way to get light rays in Daz Studio is through the use of props, for example the Simple Godrays props for 3Delight or the Expanded Godrays Iray props for Iray. These will render faster, but because they are just props, the light and shadow patterns may not realistically match the objects in the scene.

Another way to add light rays or fog into our images is to do it in postwork, for example with Photoshop brushes. However, we will need to make sure that our added 2D light rays properly match with the 3D lighting in our scene, which can be a challenge.

This is why my preferred method for adding volumetric light effects in Daz Studio is to render it, either through AoA’s camera (3Delight) or Marshian’s AtmoCam (Iray). This will give us realistic light and shadows according to our scene.

My preferred method for adding light-ray effects in Iray is by using a volumetric prop, for example with AtmoCam for Iray.

4. Glow

I add glow to my images in Photoshop. This earlier tutorial gives a detailed explanation on how I add and control the level of glow in my Daz Studio images.

Right image has added glow effects in Photoshop, which helps to soften our scene lighting.

We can also get glow effects from the Daz Studio Iray renderer by turning on the Bloom Filter.

To do this,

How to turn on the Bloom Filter in Daz Studio Iray to get glow effects.

1. Go to Render Settings > Editor > Filtering.
2. Click on Bloom Filter Enable. This will open up more options for controlling the strength and area of bloom.

Unfortunately, bloom can be expensive to render, thereby making even minor adjustments time intensive and painful. This is why I add glow in Photoshop, where I can quickly and easily control the area and strength of bloom.

5. Soft Light & Gaussian Blur

Finally, we can create a soft and dreamy look in our images by using the Gaussian Blur filter in Photoshop.

How to soften our image using Soft Light and Gaussian Blur in Photoshop.

1. Create a composite snapshot of our current image by doing Ctrl+Shift+Alt+E in Photoshop. This will create a merged image of all our current visible layers.
2. Select our merged layer and change the blending mode to Soft Light.
3. Go to Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur. I usually set blur radius to 80 in the pop-up box. However, this will depend on image size and personal preference. Play around with this value until you find something you are happy with.
4. To further strengthen the softening effect of this layer, we can change our blending mode to Overlay.
5. Finally, we fine tune the strength of our softening effect by changing the opacity of our merged layer.

The image below shows the softening effect that we get from using Gaussian Blur in Photoshop. Note that the technique also increases the contrast of our image, making it appear darker and more saturated. Those are things that we will need to readjust for.

The image to the right has our merged layer blend mode set to Overlay, Gaussian Blur radius set to 50, and opacity set to 100%.

These soft lighting techniques are useful tools for enhancing our Daz Studio images. However, a softer image is not always better because when we soften, we also lose image details. How we choose to soften our image, in what areas, and by how much, will depend on our composition, the mood we are trying to capture, as well as personal style and taste.

Unicorn Princess Fantasy Art with very soft lighting effects.

Alternatively, if we set the Environment Map image to None, we get a set of controls for using the Iray Sun. But why even use the Iray Sun when we already have lighting goodness from our Environment Maps?

• The Iray Sun allows us to create interesting patterns of light and shadow.
• We have very good control of the position of the Sun.
• The functionality comes for free with Daz Studio, so we do not need to look for or purchase environment maps that fit our scene.

Finally, it does not need to be an either-or situation. We can combine both the Iray Sun and Environment Maps to get the advantages of both, while minimizing the drawbacks when used alone. In this tutorial, we discuss how to effectively use the Iray Sun to create artistic images, like the one shown below.

Daz Studio Iray Sunlight Tutorial

1. Picking the Right Environment and Props

The main reason why I use the Iray Sun, is to create compelling and realistic patterns of light and shadow in my 3d-art. For this to happen, I must include the appropriate environment or props in my scene, which will block sunlight in exactly the right way and cast the shadow patterns I want.

A group that works well for this are buildings with interesting entrances for light, such as large windows, breaks on the roof, doorways, and more. For example, the image below uses Abandoned Interiors: Warehouse by Stonemason. By using this building with the Iray sunlight, we create light patterns on both the girl as well as in the background. Some other example buildings that work well with sunlight are The Old Barn by Age of Armour, The Ministry by Stonemason, and Rural Chateau by Jack Tomalin.

The Abandoned Interiors: Warehouse building by Stonemason is a great prop for using with the Iray sunlight because it has breaks in the roof, broken windows, and water on the ground to reflect the light.

Instead of using a single building, we may also create an outside scene with multiple buildings or structures. In this case, we use the buildings or structures themselves to cast our shadows. For example, our first Lady on a Clock image is an outside scene, with an open structure (from DM’s Fantasy Musings) placed over the girl to cast the proper shadows on the clock-face. Many of Stonemason’s external environments, such as The Streets Of Asia, The Enchanted Forest, and Urban Future 4, can be used with sunlight to create interesting shadows.

Creating patterns of light and shadow using The Ministry prop by Stonemason and Iray sunlight.

2. Positioning the Iray Sun

Next, comes the fun part of positioning the sun so that it hits our scene in the right way, and casts our shadows in the right position. The easiest way to do this is by using a spotlight.

• Add a spotlight by doing Create > New Spotlight, and call it Sun-Spotlight.
• Position the spotlight according to where we want our Iray sunlight to come from. This need not be an exact position, as we can refine it in the next step.

Set our active camera to Sun-Spotlight (top-right corner of the viewport).
• Set our active camera to Sun-Spotlight, which will show us exactly what our light is pointing at, what shadow shapes it will cast, and approximately where it will cast them. In this mode, we can also adjust our spotlight position by using the usual camera controls (i.e. we can manipulate our spotlight the same way we manipulate a camera).
• We go to Render Settings > Editor > Environment and set the SS Sun Node parameter to our Sun-Spotlight.
• After we do this, the location of our Iray Sun will be based on our Sun-Spotlight. If we change the position and angle of our Sun-Spotlight, the position and angle of our Iray Sun will also change accordingly.

For example, in the Lady on a Clock image, we set our Sun-spotlight view as shown below. We also place our structure directly in the path of our spotlight, so that it will cast interesting shadows on the clock face. Note that even though the structure is very much in the view of our Sun-Spotlight, we keep the face of the girl clearly visible, which means that it will not be occluded by shadows from our Iray Sun.

Sun-Spotlight camera view of our Lady on a Clock image. We also place our structure directly in the path of our spotlight, but we keep the face of the girl clearly visible.

In the Redhead girl with gun image, we set our Sun-spotlight to shine through a hole on the building roof.

In the Redhead girl with gun image, we set our Sun-spotlight to shine through a hole on the building roof.

Note that there are a series of controls for adjusting the Iray sun. I usually get good results without having to do any additional adjustments, but more details about them can be found here.

3. Combining the Iray Sun with an Environment Map

The Iray Sun is great for creating striking patterns of light. However, it can also create harsh lighting and overly strong shadows especially on the human figures in our scene. The images below compares Iray Sun lighting and lighting from the Tropical Ruins Environment Map.

In the Iray Sunlight image, there are great shadow patterns, but the light is too harsh on the skin.

In the Iray Sun image, there are strong shadows. The shadow silhouette of the girl is very sharp because it is close to the clock face. The circle and spoke pattern from our ceiling structure is more blurry because it is farther away. However, the light is too harsh on the girl’s skin, making it appear too glossy and unrealistic. This is in contrast to the Environment Map image which has softer contrast, producing more realistic looking skin.

To get the best results, we render both images as separate light layers and then combine them in Photoshop.

• Open both image files in Photoshop.
• Select all (Ctrl-A), copy the Environment Map image (Ctrl-C), and paste it (Ctrl-V) into the Iray Sun image file.
• Leave the blending mode at Normal and adjust the opacity of the Environment Map layer so that we get some of the sunlight shadows on the girl’s body, but also maintain the realistic look of her skin.

We adjust the opacity of the Environment Map layer so that we get some of the sunlight shadows on the girl’s body, but also maintain the realistic look of her skin.
• However, the Environment Map layer has weakened the shadows on our clock-face. One way to fix this is to only mask in the figure and remove the background of the image. This makes our figure’s skin be more realistic, but still keeps the strong shadows from our sun.

Only mask in our lady figure for the Environment Map layer. This makes our figure’s skin be more realistic, but still keeps the strong shadows from our sun.

For Iray sunlight, I set the material on my volumetric prop to Atmocam MedLight.

Finally, we may also render our Iray sunlight as a volumetric light to give our scene added atmosphere. I do this in the usual way using AtmoCam for Iray by Marshian. For Iray sunlight, I set the material on my volumetric prop to Atmocam MedLight.

The Redhead Girl with Gun image below has a layer of volumetric sunlight, which gives it added atmosphere in the background.

I do not always use the Iray Sun, but it can be a very valuable tool in our Daz Studio toolbox! 🙂

The Redhead Girl with Gun image has an added layer of volumetric Iray sunlight, which gives it added atmosphere in the background.

Depending on the artist, some things can be more effectively done in post, and some in Daz Studio. We get to decide, which techniques best help us transform what we see in our heads onto paper.

Step-by-Step Daz Studio Iray Post-Work Tutorial

My current Daz Studio Iray post-work process consists of 3 stages:

• Stage 1 – Combine Iray light layers and fix rendering artifacts.
• Stage 2 – Soften, sharpen, glow, color, and contrast.
• Stage 3 – HDR filter. We are currently using Color Efex Pro 4 from the Nik Collection. Available for free here.

All three stages are performed in Photoshop, but depending on the look that I am going for, I sometimes skip Stage 3. We will be using the Pearls image above in our step by step post-work tutorial. My recent images can be found here.

Stage 1 – Combine Lights and Fix Rendering Artifacts

Add in a soft background layer and our 5 Iray rendered light layers.

1. Add a soft image to provide an appropriate background. Here, we used one of the photographs from Lady Kassie’s Oriental background set.
2. We rendered 5 different light layers in Daz Studio Iray – Key, Fill, two Back Lights, and an Environment Map. For the Environment Map, we used the Tropical Ruins HDRi from sIBL Archives. We have Dome turned off, and saved the light layer as a PNG file.
3. We add in our light layers using the process described in How I Combine Iray Lights in Photoshop.
4. The added gray Photo Filter layer on top of our IBL layer is used to darken our IBL image, so that it fits our background and composition. By changing the gray color, we can lighten or darken our IBL layer.
5. If we zoom in on our current image, we will notice that there are certain rendering artifacts. In particular, the Asian woman’s hair collides with her thumb-nail. In addition, there is a missing pearl on the strand around her hand.

The Asian woman’s hair collides with her thumb-nail. In addition, there is a missing pearl on the strand around her hand.
6. We can fix this in post by using the Clone Stamp tool. In general, however, we want to minimize the number and extent of fixes we need to make, as we will get better results by dealing with it in Daz Studio.

Removed collisions and added in a pearl using the Clone Stamp tool.
7. Copy our completed Stage 1 image (shown below) by doing Shift + Ctrl + C (Edit > Copy Merged).
8. Create a new file by doing Ctrl + N, and then Ctrl + V to paste our Stage 1 image into the new file.

Completed Stage 1 image.

Stage 2 – Soften, Sharpen, Glow, Color, and Contrast

1. Right-click on our Stage 1 layer and select Merge Down.
2. Add glow to our image by using the process described here.

After running the Shiba Glow action on our Stage 1 image.

Re-tone or recolor our image by using a Gradient Map adjustment layer, set to Violet, Orange color range.
3. Turn off the Tint layer by clicking on the eye icon to the left of the layer.
4. Select the Glow3 layer. Do Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Gradient Map.
5. Select the Gradient Map layer and pick the Violet,Orange color range in the Adjustments menu (see right).
6. Set the blending mode of our Gradient Map layer to Screen and set opacity to 30%.
    
   We use the gradient map to retone/recolor our image. The Violet,Orange color range works well in in many cases, especially for realistic images. For fantasy pieces, I may use different colors in my gradient map.
7. Create a copy of all our layers by doing Shift + Ctrl + Alt + E (Stamp Visible).
8. Select our new layer, name it Soften, and set blending mode to Soft Light. Go to Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur. Set the radius according to the amount of softening that you want.
9. Open our volumetric light file and paste it after our Soften layer.

Adding two softening operations – Gaussian Blur layer and our Volumetric light.

Select the Levels layer and set the middle value to 0.75 in the Adjustments menu.
10. Select the Soften layer and do Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Levels. This Levels layer will help to increase contrast in our image, so that it doesn’t look so flat. We set the middle value in the Levels adjustments settings to 0.75 (see right).
11. At this point, our image looks rather dark and a bit blurry. Therefore, we want to lighten our image and bring back some detail.

After our softening effects, the image looks rather dark and a bit blurry.

Right-click on the Environment Map layer and pick Duplicate Layer.
12. Open our Environment Map (Tropical Ruins) image. Right-click on the Environment Map layer and pick Duplicate Layer (see right). In the pop-up menu, under Destination > Document, select our current working image (see below).
     
    This will duplicate our Environment Map layer into our working document. We name the layer Lighten.

In Destination > Document, select our current working image file.

This is what our Photoshop layer stack looks like after adding the lighten and sharpen layers.
13. Set the blending mode of the Lighten layer to Screen. This will add the Environment Map light into our image. Adjust opacity to the level that we want. In this case I set it to 60%.
14. Duplicate our new Environment Map layer (this time into the same document, which is the default). Name this new layer Sharpen.
15. Set the blending mode of this new layer to Soft Light and opacity to 100%. Go to Filter > Other > High Pass. Set the radius to 5.0 pixels.
     
    This creates a sharpening layer from our Environment Map to bring back some of our image details. We can further increase sharpening by setting the layer blend mode to Overlay. As usual, we can use the opacity dial to make more minor adjustments.

 
After adding our lighten and and sharpen layers, our image is now brighter and has more detail.


Left – Before; Right – After adding the lighten and sharpen layers.

Add warm tint and a Vignette layer.
16. Turn the visibility of the Tint layer back on by clicking on the check-box to the left. This will give a warm tint to our image. We can control how warm our image is by changing the opacity of this layer.
17. Select the Tint layer and do Layer > New > Layer. This creates a new layer on top of our tint layer.
18. Select our new layer and name it Vignette. Ctrl-A to select the entire layer and do Edit > Fill. In the pop-up menu select Black as our fill color and make sure that opacity is set to 100%.
19. Set the blend mode of our Vignette layer to Multiply and opacity to 30%.
20. Do Layer > Layer Mask > Reveal All. Click on our mask layer to select it.

How to select the Elliptical Marquee Tool.
21. Select the Marquee tool on the left Photoshop toolbar. Right-click on it, and select Elliptical Marquee Tool (see right). Draw an elliptical marquee around the area of our image that we want to emphasize (e.g. her face and pearls). We can also do Edit > Free Transform to rotate and scale our elliptical marquee to get it to the right position, size, and orientation.

Draw an elliptical marquee in the area we want to emphasize. Edit > Free Transform to rotate, scale, and move, our selection.
22. Once we have it in the position that we want, do Edit > Fill > Black. This will create a light area around the part of the image we want to highlight.

Create a light area around the part of the image we want to highlight by using our Vignette layer.
23. Click somewhere else on the screen to deselect our marquee. Do Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur to soften out the edges of our circle.
24. Duplicate our Vignette layer and set blend mode to Soft Light. This finishes our Stage 2 process.
25. As before, Copy our completed Stage 2 image (shown below) by doing Shift + Ctrl + C (Edit > Copy Merged).
26. Create a new file by doing Ctrl + N, and then Ctrl + V to paste our Stage 2 image into the new file.

Our image and layer stack after finishing the Stage 2 process.

Stage 3 – HDR Filter

1. Right-click on our Stage 2 layer and select Merge Down.
2. Click on Color Efex Pro 4 from the Nik Collection (Download for free here).
3. Select Detail Extractor in the Color Efex Pro 4 interface. In this case, I use the default settings (see below) and hit ok.

Use the Detail Extractor in Color Efex 4 from the Nik Collection to bring out more image details.

Our Detail Extractor layer with a mask for the areas we want to emphasize (e.g. face).
4. This adds a new Detail Extractor layer to our image file. We can then set the opacity of that layer to control the level of detail added. In this case, I set the opacity to 30%.
5. In addition, we may only want to add detail on certain parts of the image. To do this, select our Detail Extractor layer and do Layer > Layer Mask > Hide All. Then, paint in the areas where we want more detail.
6. Also note that the Detail Extractor operation will lighten our image. To re-balance the layer so that it better matches the original Stage 2 image, we add a Levels adjustment layer (Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Levels). Make sure to check Use Previous Layer to Create Clipping Mask, so that the Levels adjustment only applies to our Detail Extractor layer.

Make sure to check Use Previous Layer to Create Clipping Mask.
7. Set the middle number in the Levels adjustments menu to 0.9. This finishes our Stage 3 process.

I do not always use the HDR filter. For this composition, I actually prefer the softer image, so I posted the finished Stage 2 image in my Daz Gallery. In fact, this applies to all of the methods outlined above; we only apply them if they help to enhance our image. Experiment with opacity and adjustment settings to get the results that you want.

Hope you enjoyed this step-by-step post-work tutorial.

Asian woman holding pearls final image (with HDR filter).

I use the Piano Bar scene (shown below) to illustrate how I do this. In this scene, there is very strong light coming in from behind the figure through the windows of the building. This light also creates interesting patterns on the table surface of the bar, which makes for a fun lighting environment.

The scene uses Bar Interior by Soulless Empathy and the Sultry Noir Bundle.

How I Add Glow to My Daz Studio Images

How I Add Glow to My Daz Studio Images

1. I start, as usual, by creating my standard light layers in Daz Studio Iray. This includes an IBL (Environment Map), Key, Fill, and two Back lights. Here is a more detailed tutorial on my Iray lighting process.
2. Next, I want to create an outside glow layer using just my Environment Map light (IBL). Therefore, I open my IBL light layer in Photoshop.
3. I right-click on my IBL layer and choose Duplicate Layer. I change the name of my duplicate layer to Glow Base.

My layer stack after adding Brightness/Contrast and Hue/Saturation adjustment layers to my Glow Base layer.
4. I select my Glow Base layer and do Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Brightness/Contrast. I click on Use Previous Layer to Create Clipping Mask so that the adjustment only applies to my Glow Base layer.
5. I also do Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Hue/Saturation (with clipping mask).
6. Now I can control both adjustment layers to properly set my glow base. In general, I want to set Contrast very high so that I enhance the highlights in my original image. By changing Brightness, I can increase or decrease the area of glow.

Make sure to check the Use Legacy option in the Brightness/Contrast adjustments area.

This will allow us to make the brighter areas much brighter and the darker areas much darker, thus clearly separating out our glow spots. Note however, this is not an option we want to generally use because it causes loss of image information. This article has more a comprehensive discussion of the Use Legacy option.


My Glow Base layer with contrast 100, brightness -60, and saturation -100.

Creating my first glow layer (Glow1) from my Glow Base layer.
7. After I am done adjusting my Glow Base layer, I duplicate the combined image by doing Ctrl+Shift+Alt+E. I name the new layer Glow1 and turn off the visibility of the Glow Base layer.
8. I select my Glow1 layer and do Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur. I set my Gaussian blur radius to 10 pixels. I set my Glow1 layer blend mode to Screen. I set my layer opacity to 20%.

My Photoshop layer stack after creating all three glow layers.
9. I duplicate my Glow1 layer and call it Glow2. I do Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur and set my Gaussian blur radius to 50 pixels. I set my layer opacity to 30%.
10. I duplicate my Glow2 layer and call it Glow3. I do do Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur and set my Gaussian blur radius to 120 pixels. I set my layer opacity to 50%.
11. Now I can control the amount of glow in my image by changing the opacity level of my three glow layers.

Give my glow a warm tint to simulate sunlight.
12. Finally, I want to give my light a warm tint so that it simulates sunlight. To do this, I create a new layer (Layer > New > Layer). I select the new layer and fill it with an orange color (Edit > Fill). I set blend mode to Overlay, opacity to 10%, and name the new layer Tint.

Final image of my IBL/Environment Map light with three layers of glow applied. Glow1 = 50%, Glow2 = 60%, Glow3 = 70%.

The reason why I added glow separately to my IBL layer is so that I can control the level of glow there separately from the rest of my other lights. However, we can also apply glow to all our lights at once. In the image below, I applied my glow technique to the full Piano Bar scene (with all lights present).

Applied the above glow process to all the lights in my Piano Bar scene.

Note that while the front glow is appropriate, the back glow is a bit weak. To add that extra punch to our composition, we want to increase the glow coming in from our IBL layer. Since we have already created a separate glow layer for this, we can simply make a merged copy and paste it into our full scene. Set the blend mode to Screen, and adjust opacity to suit our liking. In this case, I set opacity to 50%.

Added extra glow for the IBL light layer.

In my final tutorial of this series, I will cover the postwork steps I generally use in Photoshop when working with skin.  As with using Octane, this isn’t a recipe, and some tweaking is required depending on the render I am working on.  That being said, I do routinely use these steps as a starting place with nearly all my renders.

They are also quite rudimentary – I only started learning Photoshop shortly after learning Daz Studio – so less than a year.  Therefore, this will be a tutorial mainly aimed at beginners.

Daz Studio Octane Postwork Tutorial for Beginners

Step by Step Photoshop Postwork Process

To start off with – you can download the original 4k render here.

You can also download the .duf file for the Daz scene. You will need to own Olympia 7 and Olympia 7 HD Add-On (if you don’t, go buy her, she’s fantastic).  I tweak my skin textures on almost every new render, so this scene includes a newer skin texture from the one included with the previous Octane skin tutorial.

Go ahead and open the original render file in Photoshop (if you use Gimp, almost all of the following can still be applied)

1. Duplicate the Background layer – right click layer > duplicate layer > OK

Duplicate the ‘background’ layer – right click layer > duplicate layer > OK
2. From the main menus select image > auto tone. Then repeat with image > auto colour.  Select Edit from the main menu and fade auto colour to 80%

After applying Image > Auto Tone and Image > Auto Color in Step 2.
3. Create a new fill/adjustment layer using the circular icon underneath the layers, and select colour balance. With the new window that opens choose the shadows tone and adjust the yellow/blue slider towards the blue by no more than 10.  Repeat by setting the midtones towards cyan by 10, and the hightlights towards yellow by 10.

In step 3, create a new Color Balance adjustment layer. Then set Color Balance adjustments according to the image on the right.
4. Create a new merged layer (shift+ctrl+alt+e) – this will copy all of the layers and merge them into a new layer, thus preserving the original layers if you need to return to them (this is called a non-destructive workflow). Your layers tab should now look like this:
   

   Our layer stack after creating a new merged layer (shift+ctrl+alt+e).

   With the newly created layer selected, select image > adjustments > brightness/contrast.  Set the brightness to -70 and the contrast to +70, then OK.  Now select image > adjustments > hue/saturation and set the saturation to -40.

   Select filter > blur > gaussian blur, and set the radius to 8.

   Finally select the blending mode (drop down menu at top of layer window) to screen, and set its opacity to 50%.


Setting the Blending Mode (drop down menu at top of layer window) to screen.
5. Create a new fill/adjustment layer like in step 3 but this time select a photo filter layer. Set the filter to cooling filter (lbb) and adjust the density to 10%

Our new Photo Filter adjustment layer settings.
6. The final step is to create a new merged layer (shift+ctrl+alt+e) like in step 4.  Perform a final auto-tone like in step 2.

Final result of our Photoshop postwork process to the right compared to our original Octane rendered image to the left.

Summary

I hope you have found this series of Octane tutorials useful, and they have encouraged you to try the octane demo.  Octane is a very different beast compared with iRay, and it can be a daunting prospect when you first open it up and see the node based system. 

However, you can get pretty good results by using the auto-convert texture tool or using pre-built shaders from the library. To get the most out of it though, you really need to overcome your fears and dive into the nodes – where with time you will be rewarded with a plethora of ways to enhance your renders.  And did I say, it is really, really fast!

This article and all of the images within were created by the very talented Brian Sains. Copyright © Brian Sains. Check out his gallery here.

Sub-surface scattering (SSS)

In the introduction to this series I explained how Physically Based Render engines work – simulated light bouncing around interacting with surfaces.

SSS is the process that defines –

• How light passes through a translucent object,
• How it interacts with the properties of that object, and
• How it exits the object (at a different point – hence scattered).

In practical terms, particularly with skin, it is the effect where you see light pass through extremities like the ear, producing a reddening glow.

Showing Sub-surface scattering (SSS) effects as it passes through the ear, producing a reddening glow.

That is about as far as I can take the science, so let’s look at how SSS is controlled within Octane.  SSS is applied to a material node using a scattering node, which can be applied to both diffuse and specular materials (but not glossy ones).  If you look at the skin shader material in our previous skin tutorial, you will see there is a scattering node attached to all four material nodes (3 scattering nodes, as one is shared between two specular nodes).

Node-graph diagram of our skin shader showing the a scattering node attached to a material node.

The diagram below shows the three scattering nodes controlling (from left to right) the skin’s deep/mid layer, the mid-layer and the surface layer.

Settings for three scattering nodes controlling (from left to right) the skin’s deep/mid layer, the mid-layer and the surface layer.

Octane Scattering Node Settings

1. Density

Density controls how fast light travels through an object, the higher the value the faster it travels (a value of 0 would result in no scattering).  My interpretation of this is that the higher the value, the deeper light can penetrate a surface.  When using other materials, particularly those from the online database, I have found this setting to be very low.  It is very dependent on the size of the model, and therefore the scale used within Daz.  Normally these materials have been developed for use within other 3d applications with a different scaling system, which is why they tend to be set lower.

2. Absorption

The scattered light will be the opposite of the absorption colour.

This setting defines which light is absorbed faster, in the case of the 3^rd node it’s a green/blue.  It took me a while to get my head round this, but essentially the effect is the scattered light will be the opposite of this colour (from a wavelength perspective).  The image shown here is from the colour picker within octane – a colour set to absorb blue will scatter as red.

3. Scattering

Scattering is similar to absorption, but defines the speed at which light will be scattered when it passes through an object.

4. Phase/direction

This controls the direction the light is scattered:

• 0 – light scattered the same amount in any direction
• 1.0 – more light continues to travel in the direction it was originally traveling
• -1.0 – light backscatters in the direction it came from

5. Adjusting the scattering nodes

Sadly there is no one definitive setting that will work across all objects. It very much depends on scale, lighting, position, kernel settings and so on.  It is very much a case of trial and error, and an area I still need to work on.

Practically, you may not need to worry about this setting too much, for example if the object is distant or if the ears are covered.  But if you do need to, it’s a juggling act between getting the right amount of scattering across all skin materials. 

Light wouldn’t scatter like that through a hand.

Note – any changes you make to one material (e.g. ears) will have to be adjusted in other skin materials (e.g. arms), otherwise the change will be visible in the UV seams.  Consider the girl with the red ear above – she was one of my first attempts at SSS.  Now look at her hand …

Light wouldn’t scatter like that through a hand.  As a result I tend to pose a model with the hand next to the ear, and then adjust the density (starting with the deep scatter node).  Density (from left to right) 1, 250, 500.

I tend to pose a model with the hand next to the ear, and then adjust the density. Density (from left to right) 1, 250, 500.

Glossiness

The last area I would like to cover regarding the skin material is gloss/reflection.  This is for subtle gloss effect, so you wouldn’t use this for a wet skin look, but more for areas like the lips, nails, lacrimals, or eye socket. 

Gloss is controlled in Octane using the Roughness setting in both specular and glossy nodes, but is not available in diffuse nodes.  The scale between 0 and 1 determines the level – the lower the roughness, the more glossy/reflective the surface.

The lower the roughness, the more glossy/reflective the surface.

Let’s consider a practical example using the lips.  The lips are currently sharing a material with the face and the ears, which is no good as we don’t want a shiny face! 

• Return to the Material tab and select the Lips surface.
• Select the material assigned to the lips and copy as a new material.
• Now apply this new copied material to the lips. It now has its own material that we can edit.

Select the material assigned to the lips and copy as a new material.

You can get away with this with the lips as they have a clearly defined line between the surrounding face surface, so the seam is less obvious.

With the newly assigned lip material selected, open the node viewport.  I have found, surprisingly, that the best place to adjust the roughness for the lips is in the uppermost scattering node (the one for the deep scatter), which to me, sounds counter-intuitive.  The image below shows the lips with roughness set to 500,250 & 0 (top to bottom).

Lips with roughness set to 500,250 & 0 (top to bottom).

Finishing up in Daz

Octane comes with a free online material database containing 100s of organic and non-organic materials.  I used the auto-material function in Octane for the eye-lashes. This feature takes the surface settings from within Daz and tries to convert them into Octane. The results vary, and it struggles with iRay materials (though it is getting better). Within the Material tab, right-click the item and select Create new material > Auto Material.

I used the auto-material function in Octane for the eye-lashes.

The other materials I used in the Mei portrait are:

1. Cornea and Eye Reflection – Clear cornea shader  (Octane database)
2. Eyelashes – Auto-material
3. Iris – RedSpec
4. Pupils – RedSpec
5. Sclera – TonySculptor Sclera (Octane database)
6. Hair (Actual Hair 2) – RedSpec Hair Shader

The RedSpec materials are part of a set purchased from a 3^rd Party.

I used the iRay OOT Hair Shaders for colour and transparency maps.  I sometimes increase the smoothing value within Daz for hair as well.

Mei portrait

I have always had a real dislike of the Tear object around the eye, which is now part of the eye moisture object in Genesis 3 characters.  I remove it in Daz by using the geometry tool.

• Click anywhere on the tear.
• Right-click and do Geometry selection > Select connected.
• With the tear now selected (see image below), you can right click Geometry assignment > Create surface from selected.
• Name it, and then repeat with the other eye.
• I then apply a null-shader (diffuse node with no settings, and opacity set to 0) to the tears, and there you have it, no more tears!

Selecting the tear area on our figure’s eyes.

Summary

So that’s it for Daz Studio, Octane, and skin.  I still have some work to do, in particular on skin reflection, index of refraction, Fresnel effect, falloff textures and more.  I also want to break down the material a bit more and make it more processor efficient.

Having spent so much time on the skin, I also need to work on bringing the standard of my other materials up to scratch. You will notice many of my models don’t smile, simply because I am yet to develop a material I am happy with. Same goes for clothes.

Thank you for visiting my Daz Studio Octane tutorials. Hope you enjoyed them.

This article and all of the images within were created by the very talented Brian Sains. Copyright © Brian Sains. Check out his gallery here.

What I want to achieve here is to give you the ability to set up a simple light rig and basic camera within Octane. I also describe how to add in displacement maps for increased realism.

In this tutorial, I will continue to use the Mei portrait image below as an example. For more on how I created a realistic skin shader, please refer to this tutorial. If you are new to Daz Studio Octane, there is an introduction article here.

How to Set-Up Camera, Lights, & Displacement in Daz Studio Octane

1. Daz Studio Octane Lights

Lighting in Octane can be achieved from the Environment Tab (Octane daylight environment or HDR Texture environment) and through emissive textures.  For my image, I used a single emissive key light and an HDR image (Playa Sunrise) from the fantastic sIBL archive.

Open the Environment Tab, set the image to the Playa Sunrise HDRi and adjust the settings as shown below (making sure the Gamma is set to 1).  That’s all you need to do to set up the environment light.  You can rotate the image using the Translation X setting. This is best done with the render window open and all objects hidden (from within Daz).  I will leave it as it is, because I want the sun in the image as the back light for my subject.

How to set-up HDRi lighting in Daz Studio Octane

Now let’s set up a simple emissive light in the scene.  Most people tend to use a plane primitive for emissive lighting, but I prefer to use a flattened sphere as a key light (I prefer the reflection you get in the eye).  I place the primitive as illustrated below.

Front view of where I place my emissive light.

Top view of where I place my emissive light.

To create the emissive material you need to return to the Octane material tab.  Right click the Sphere primitive and select Create new light source > Simple.

To create the emissive material you need to return to the Octane material tab.

Open the newly created material in the Node editor, right click on the diffuse node and select Smart Unfold.  This breaks down a node into its constituent parts so you can see how it is built.  As you can see, an emissive texture is simply a Blackbody Emission node plugged into a Diffuse node (you cannot have an emissive glossy or specular material).

How our newly created emissive light material looks in the Node Editor after selecting Smart Unfold.

Select the Blackbody node and update the settings as is shown in the left image below. The orange texture colour is from the horizon of the Playa HDR image, selected using the colour picker tool that is available when you edit the colour.  If you like, repeat the process and create a second primitive to the left side of the character as a fill light. This time select the blue colour from the sky in the HDRi (below right).

Set the colour of our key emissive light to the orange from the horizon of the Playa HDR image. Repeat the process and create a second light (fill light) to the left side of the character. Set the colour to the blue from the sky of our HDRi.

Test render after our initial light set-up.

Now, we can fine tune our lights from within the render viewport itself, even when the image is rendering.  Let’s start with the Camera Imager and Post Processing tabs. The following are the settings I used in my Mei portrait:

Camera Imager and Post Processing settings I used in my Mei portrait.

Test render after our new Camera Imager and Post Processing settings.

Choice of settings in the Camera Imager comes down to personal preference.  As I have said previously, I’m a big fan of the Agfachrome, Ektachrome and Kodachrome filters.  I also find adding bloom improves the natural lighting and softens the image.

2. Daz Studio Octane Camera Settings

• Create a camera in Daz and make sure that it’s selected within the Daz viewport.
• Position it so the face is in full portrait view.
• Now open the Octane viewport again.  Use the ‘Autofocus’ tool to select an area of focus (I tend to use the eye or nose as my focal point). This gives us a nice quick DOF effect.

Open the Octane viewport, and use the Autofocus tool to select an area of focus.

Using the eye as my focal point.
• To adjust the degree of focus, you need to select the camera within Daz and open the Cameras pane.  Use the Aperture Diameter setting in that pane. I usually set it between 5-15mm (the f-stop is altered automatically).
   
  I am sure this will probably cause photographers to scream “that’s not how to do it!” – but it works for me 🙂

Setting the Aperture Diameter in the Cameras pane.

3. Daz Studio Octane Displacement Maps

Some of you may have noticed that in the skin tutorial, we only used a diffuse map – no bump, normal or displacement maps.  The reason I leave it to now is that I prefer to use displacement maps, which can slow down render time. Therefore, I wait until I am happy with the scene, then add displacement and tweak as necessary.

I used a displacement map in the Mei portrait.  It needs to be a greyscale image and ideally 4k and above.  In this case I used the standard bump map that came with Mei 7, but in the past have used dedicated displacement maps (though rarely supplied) or have made my own from the diffuse map ( tutorial on making displacement maps ). 

The important thing here is that the black parts of the map are the parts that depress into the object (like pores) and the white bits extrude (like spots or eyebrows).  Ultimately, I find a displacement map produces a much better result as it physically alters the shape of the object, thus giving you subtle shades and shadows.

To add a map to the displacement node, return to the Material pane in Octane and open the face material in the node editor.

Note that there is already a greyscale image node waiting to be filled, which is attached to the displacement node.

You will notice there is already a greyscale image node waiting to be filled. This is attached to the displacement node, which in turn drives the displacement for the combined nodes before being applied to the surface.  If you have a bump map that has white eyebrows and black pores then you should be able to use it here.  Use the grayscale image node to load the bump map.

Next, select the Displacement node and check the level of detail corresponds to the image you have used (normally 4k).  The only other adjustment required is the height.  This is very sensitive, and you wouldn’t want to go beyond a height of 0.12cm. 

The height is very sensitive, and you would not want to go beyond a height of 0.12cm.

The image below shows (from left to right) no displacement, 0.06cm and 0.12cm.

From left to right – no displacement, 0.06cm and 0.12cm.

You will need to go back and update all of your skin materials for torso and arms accordingly, and make sure they are set to the same mid-level and height (but with different image maps). Otherwise, the seams between the UV areas will become visible.

You will need to go back and update all of your skin materials for torso and arms accordingly, otherwise the seams between the UV areas will become visible.

I have found that adding bump or normal maps alongside a displacement map adds very little if anything.  However, displacement maps can be very fiddly and more render intensive.  If you wish to use a bump map then create a new image node (greyscale with a gamma setting below 0.1) or normal map (RGB image node) and attach it to the appropriate connecter on the 3 specular and 1 diffuse nodes.

In the next tutorial I will cover a couple of other node adjustments you may find useful, and then cover briefly the other materials I used in the Mei render.