What I want to achieve here is to give you the ability to set up a simple light rig and basic camera within Octane. I also describe how to add in displacement maps for increased realism.

In this tutorial, I will continue to use the Mei portrait image below as an example. For more on how I created a realistic skin shader, please refer to this tutorial. If you are new to Daz Studio Octane, there is an introduction article here.

How to Set-Up Camera, Lights, & Displacement in Daz Studio Octane

1. Daz Studio Octane Lights

Lighting in Octane can be achieved from the Environment Tab (Octane daylight environment or HDR Texture environment) and through emissive textures.  For my image, I used a single emissive key light and an HDR image (Playa Sunrise) from the fantastic sIBL archive.

Open the Environment Tab, set the image to the Playa Sunrise HDRi and adjust the settings as shown below (making sure the Gamma is set to 1).  That’s all you need to do to set up the environment light.  You can rotate the image using the Translation X setting. This is best done with the render window open and all objects hidden (from within Daz).  I will leave it as it is, because I want the sun in the image as the back light for my subject.

How to set-up HDRi lighting in Daz Studio Octane

Now let’s set up a simple emissive light in the scene.  Most people tend to use a plane primitive for emissive lighting, but I prefer to use a flattened sphere as a key light (I prefer the reflection you get in the eye).  I place the primitive as illustrated below.

Front view of where I place my emissive light.

Top view of where I place my emissive light.

To create the emissive material you need to return to the Octane material tab.  Right click the Sphere primitive and select Create new light source > Simple.

To create the emissive material you need to return to the Octane material tab.

Open the newly created material in the Node editor, right click on the diffuse node and select Smart Unfold.  This breaks down a node into its constituent parts so you can see how it is built.  As you can see, an emissive texture is simply a Blackbody Emission node plugged into a Diffuse node (you cannot have an emissive glossy or specular material).

How our newly created emissive light material looks in the Node Editor after selecting Smart Unfold.

Select the Blackbody node and update the settings as is shown in the left image below. The orange texture colour is from the horizon of the Playa HDR image, selected using the colour picker tool that is available when you edit the colour.  If you like, repeat the process and create a second primitive to the left side of the character as a fill light. This time select the blue colour from the sky in the HDRi (below right).

Set the colour of our key emissive light to the orange from the horizon of the Playa HDR image. Repeat the process and create a second light (fill light) to the left side of the character. Set the colour to the blue from the sky of our HDRi.

Test render after our initial light set-up.

Now, we can fine tune our lights from within the render viewport itself, even when the image is rendering.  Let’s start with the Camera Imager and Post Processing tabs. The following are the settings I used in my Mei portrait:

Camera Imager and Post Processing settings I used in my Mei portrait.

Test render after our new Camera Imager and Post Processing settings.

Choice of settings in the Camera Imager comes down to personal preference.  As I have said previously, I’m a big fan of the Agfachrome, Ektachrome and Kodachrome filters.  I also find adding bloom improves the natural lighting and softens the image.

2. Daz Studio Octane Camera Settings

• Create a camera in Daz and make sure that it’s selected within the Daz viewport.
• Position it so the face is in full portrait view.
• Now open the Octane viewport again.  Use the ‘Autofocus’ tool to select an area of focus (I tend to use the eye or nose as my focal point). This gives us a nice quick DOF effect.

Open the Octane viewport, and use the Autofocus tool to select an area of focus.

Using the eye as my focal point.
• To adjust the degree of focus, you need to select the camera within Daz and open the Cameras pane.  Use the Aperture Diameter setting in that pane. I usually set it between 5-15mm (the f-stop is altered automatically).
   
  I am sure this will probably cause photographers to scream “that’s not how to do it!” – but it works for me 🙂

Setting the Aperture Diameter in the Cameras pane.

3. Daz Studio Octane Displacement Maps

Some of you may have noticed that in the skin tutorial, we only used a diffuse map – no bump, normal or displacement maps.  The reason I leave it to now is that I prefer to use displacement maps, which can slow down render time. Therefore, I wait until I am happy with the scene, then add displacement and tweak as necessary.

I used a displacement map in the Mei portrait.  It needs to be a greyscale image and ideally 4k and above.  In this case I used the standard bump map that came with Mei 7, but in the past have used dedicated displacement maps (though rarely supplied) or have made my own from the diffuse map ( tutorial on making displacement maps ). 

The important thing here is that the black parts of the map are the parts that depress into the object (like pores) and the white bits extrude (like spots or eyebrows).  Ultimately, I find a displacement map produces a much better result as it physically alters the shape of the object, thus giving you subtle shades and shadows.

To add a map to the displacement node, return to the Material pane in Octane and open the face material in the node editor.

Note that there is already a greyscale image node waiting to be filled, which is attached to the displacement node.

You will notice there is already a greyscale image node waiting to be filled. This is attached to the displacement node, which in turn drives the displacement for the combined nodes before being applied to the surface.  If you have a bump map that has white eyebrows and black pores then you should be able to use it here.  Use the grayscale image node to load the bump map.

Next, select the Displacement node and check the level of detail corresponds to the image you have used (normally 4k).  The only other adjustment required is the height.  This is very sensitive, and you wouldn’t want to go beyond a height of 0.12cm. 

The height is very sensitive, and you would not want to go beyond a height of 0.12cm.

The image below shows (from left to right) no displacement, 0.06cm and 0.12cm.

From left to right – no displacement, 0.06cm and 0.12cm.

You will need to go back and update all of your skin materials for torso and arms accordingly, and make sure they are set to the same mid-level and height (but with different image maps). Otherwise, the seams between the UV areas will become visible.

You will need to go back and update all of your skin materials for torso and arms accordingly, otherwise the seams between the UV areas will become visible.

I have found that adding bump or normal maps alongside a displacement map adds very little if anything.  However, displacement maps can be very fiddly and more render intensive.  If you wish to use a bump map then create a new image node (greyscale with a gamma setting below 0.1) or normal map (RGB image node) and attach it to the appropriate connecter on the 3 specular and 1 diffuse nodes.

In the next tutorial I will cover a couple of other node adjustments you may find useful, and then cover briefly the other materials I used in the Mei render.

Remember, however, that good lighting is dependent on the type of images that are created. I mainly create character based 3d-art, where there is a central figure(s) (e.g. person, animal, alien, robot) that is the main focus of the image. There are surrounding elements and an appropriate backdrop, but they are all in support of the central figure.

As a result, my lighting setup is also geared towards those types of images and may not be as appropriate for other types of renders, such as those that focus on landscapes, architecture, or large-scale scenes.

Bad Girl image rendered in Daz Studio Iray.

1. Headlamp

When I first started creating 3d-art, I spent most of my time on figures and posing. At the time, I didn’t know much about lighting, so I went with what was the default in Daz Studio, which is the camera headlamp.

The camera headlamp is a light mounted at the top of our active camera. In this way, it lights everything in our scene equally (i.e. everything pointed to by our active camera). This makes it very easy to set up scene lighting because –

• I do not have to manage or add any lights of my own.
• Everything is lighted well, so my main figures and their faces are not covered by unwanted shadows.

Unfortunately, this type of equal lighting also makes my image appear flat, overly bright, and non-realistic. This was less of a problem when I only used my images in support of my online articles or for creating website headers. However, my goals soon changed.

Fire Goddess and Phoenix, rendered with a simple headlamp in Daz Studio. Background and postwork in Photoshop.

At the time, there were a couple of contests going on at Daz3D, with some fantastic looking entries. Some entries were artistic and fantasy based, while others were more realistic. However, they all had interesting lighting which set them apart from everything else. These images and their wonderful artists inspired me to start learning more about lighting my 3d-art scenes. This artist is one of my top favorites when it comes to lighting.

2. Uber Environment Light and Spolights

The first thing that I did, to learn more about lights in Daz Studio, is to use one of the light sets that I already owned. The light set that I applied had an Uber Environment light and a couple of spotlights, so that became my new lighting setup.

A problem that I encountered right-off is that the faces of my primary figures were not bright enough, and were often set in shadow. I quickly discovered that I could solve this problem by cranking up the Uber Environment light.

Rendered using the Uber Environment 2 light in Daz Studio 4.6 Pro, with post-work in Photoshop.

The Daz Studio UE light is used to simulate environment as well as ambient or bounce light. Environment light is provided by an image that is attached to the UE light. There are also other controls in the UE light parameters to adjust shadows, bounce, render quality, and more. This very simple tutorial has the basics on how to use UE lights in Daz Studio.

The truth is, I never really played around much with Daz Studio’s UE light. All I did was apply a preset light group (I think I used an early one by Dimension Theory), crank up the UE light until my primary figures were bright enough, and that was it.

Note that UE lights only work in 3Delight and NOT in Iray.

Rendered using UE2 light and spotlights in Daz Studio. This image won the Daz PC monthly contest in December 2013.

The images above are a lot more realistic than the headlamp example. There are also some shadows which give the figures more depth and shape. However, because I am simply cranking up the environment light, the image is still fairly flat, due to the consistent lighting. The figures do not pop out from the rest of the environment, and the light is not very interesting because it is bright throughout. In particular, there is not enough contrast between the figures and the background, and also within the figures themselves.

3. Dreamlight and LDPR

At this point in my Daz Studio lighting journey, I saw a picture in the Daz3D Gallery that had wonderful lighting, and used something called Light Dome Pro – R (There is now also a version for Iray). I was intrigued.

I did some research, and the next time Dreamlight’s store was on sale, I got LDP-R and the DAZ Studio Illuminated tutorial.

Based on the beginner skill level I had at the time, I learned a lot from the tutorial. I now started learning how to add glow, tint, depth, and better contrast to my pictures. Compare the image below and my previous images, and you can see a marked improvement.

Scene created and rendered in Daz Studio 4.6 Pro, with Light Dome Pro Revolution by Dreamlight.

Some things that I learned from LDP-R and Dreamlight’s tutorial-

• I learned how to add glow and tint in postwork (Photoshop).
• I learned how to render my light sources into different layers and do fast lighting adjustments within Photoshop.
• I learned how to create interesting shadows and contrast with a distant light (mimicking sunlight).
• I learned how to properly light my main figures.

In my scenes, I would have the sunlight from LDP-R, and I would add in some spotlights to accent my figure according to the 3-point-light system. Occasionally, I would add in some environment lights if I want to accent anything in the background.

Next, I would render everything into layers using the LDP-R system. Then, I bring everything into Photoshop where I can further manipulate the strength of each light through Photoshop’s powerful layering system. Once that is done, I run the Miami Filter action which comes with the LDP-R package. This action adds glow, tint, and a vignette effect to my Daz Studio render.

Between a sad goodbye and a happy hello, is a period of quiet longing. Rendered with Daz Studio 4.6 Pro and LDP-R, with postwork in Photoshop.

4. Colored Lights and Light Rays

One of the things that was still missing though, is color. I enjoy doing fantasy type 3d-art, and much of the fantasy artwork that I admire, not only has great high contrast lighting, but also very saturated colors. Therefore, I wanted to explore using colored lights and also those cool looking light rays.

This was where I discovered Age of Armour’s wonderful lights and his Atmospheric Effects Cameras package. The Atmospheric Effects package contains a volumetric camera that allows me to easily render great looking light rays. I would render this in a separate image, and then integrate it within Photoshop.

Note that at the writing of this article, these AoA’s lights and cameras only work in the 3Delight renderer and NOT in Iray.

Rendered using Age of Armour’s awesome light products and their volumetric camera for the red light ray.

At this stage, I stopped using the Daz Studio portion of LDP-R, but I continued to apply the lighting principles I had learned previously.

• I use AoA’s ambient light to illuminate the entire scene.
• I add one distant light, similar to the sunlight added by the LDP-R system to provide sharp shadows.
• I add spotlights (according to the 3-point light system) to make my figure stand out.
• Finally, I add a spotlight to produce my light-ray. I render this light separately using AoA’s volumetric camera.

Soon after, I also discovered Advanced Light Presets for AoA’s Lights by Dimension Theory. These presets provided another way to add more interesting light and color into my 3d-art scenes. Instead of using just one ambient light and one distant light, I would instead use one of the presets in Dimension Theory’s package.

I usually use the distant light presets which contain one ambient light, and three distant lights. Then, I re-adjust the colors of the lights and the shadows, according to the look that I want. Usually I set one distant light up as sunlight, with sharp shadows. All the other lights I leave it at their original soft shadow settings.

In this scenario, I no longer need to separately light my figure with spotlights, as the multiple distant lights provide an interesting enough effect. I may sometimes add a spotlight to brighten my figure’s face, if it is in shadow.

Rendered in Daz Studio 4.6 Pro with AoA’s lights and Dimension Theory’s Advanced Light Presets.

5. Reality Plugin and LuxRender

After exploring colored lights for a few months, I became enchanted with some of the realistic looking renders in the Daz Gallery that were made with the Reality plugin and LuxRender. I won’t go into it in great detail here, because I already have a detailed article comparing the renders that I could make before, and what I can make with Reality and Lux.

Created in Daz Studio 4.7 Pro, and rendered using Reality/Lux.

From a lighting perspective, there are several key differences-

• There is no ambient light in Reality/Lux. Bounce light, which is what ambient light tries to simulate, is physically modeled in Lux, thus ambient surfaces and light are no longer needed.
• The use of distant lights are greatly discouraged since it causes unrealistic illumination. Because I relied very heavily on distant lights previously, this was a big change for me. Instead of using distant lights, I now added mesh lights to illuminate my figure(s) (still according to the 3-point light system).

  Mesh lights provide soft shadows and realistic illumination that takes advantage of the physical realism provided by the Lux renderer.

• The Reality plugin also comes with a Sunlight object that I use to light my entire scene and provide shadows.
• Finally, LuxRender has a great light-group mechanism that allows us to save each light group into a different image. This is similar to what LDP-R did for us previously, except that there is great flexibility here in creating as many light groups as we want.

  In addition, unlike LDP-R, we only need to make one render pass, which is a really good thing, since it takes a pretty long time to get a good quality image. I usually leave my renders on over-night.

Note that even though I am using a different lighting system, many of the lessons that I learned before are general, and can be applied to all my 3d-art renders.

Created in Daz Studio 4.7 Pro. Rendered using Reality/Lux.

6. Daz Studio Iray

Like Lux, Daz Studio Iray is also a physically based renderer. Based on my renders so far, I think that the results of both renderers are very comparable, in terms of quality. However, I have decided to focus most of my energies on the Iray renderer.

• The main reason for this is because Iray is integrated with the Daz Studio system. As such it will get great vendor support, which we are already seeing in the materials and light sets being offered. For me, this is an enormous advantage over Reality/Lux.
• The Daz Studio Iray renderer is much faster than Reality/Lux if one has a good nVidia graphics card. For me, the good graphics card is absolutely necessary.

  At the moment, Daz Studio Iray does not have the great light-group feature that exists in Lux. Therefore, I need to manually render each of my lights into a separate image. Because Iray is fast, this is not a big inconvenience and I no longer need to leave my renders on over-night. However, without fast rendering, this manual process would be excruciatingly painful. Ultimately, getting an image done would take much more time than in Reality/Lux.

  In addition, Daz Studio Iray does not have the awesome recovery feature in Lux. Even when Lux crashes, I can recover most of the rendering work already done because Lux intermittently saves out a recovery file.

In short, I mostly use Iray now, because of vendor support and rendering speed. However, without a good nVidia card, I would probably stick with Reality/Lux because of the light-group and recovery features which are both extremely useful.

Rendered in Daz Studio 4.8 Pro Iray. Postwork in Photoshop.

7. Conclusion

I have gone through many different lighting setups from beginner to now. However, in each step, I learned something new, and many of those lessons are general and can be applied later on.

What I have learned so far from this wonderful journey, is that knowledge is not wasted. I started with something very simple, and then slowly build up my knowledge one step at a time. I learned by looking at images in various galleries, and participating in 3d-art contests. Indeed, my very early images were weak in many areas, but the key is to identify those areas of weakness and learn how to improve on each one.

There are still deficiencies in my 3d-art today, but fewer than before. I have improved, gained some useful knowledge, and created some images that I enjoy looking at.

Created in Daz Studio 4.7 Pro, rendered in Reality/Lux, and postwork in Photoshop.